Resin coasters are the perfect place to start with resin projects. They’re small, forgiving, and even imperfect ones still look great. Plus, you’ll actually use them, so they won’t just sit in a drawer.
I’m going to walk you through this like I’m sitting at your kitchen table with you. No complicated jargon, no pressure—just the real steps that work.
However, if you’re just starting this hobby, I recommend that you first read my Resin Crafts 101: Beginner Guide for Total Beginners. You’ll learn all the basics about resin art, including the essential supplies, safety tips, and how to mix resin correctly for the best results.
What You’ll Need
Before anything else, let’s talk supplies. The good news? You don’t need a lot, and most of it is super affordable on Amazon. You can even buy a beginner resin kit to make things easier.
For the essentials, you’ll need:
- Epoxy resin — look for one labeled “beginner-friendly” or “fast-curing” so you’re not waiting forever
- Silicone coaster molds — silicone is key because the resin pops right out once cured
- Mixing cups — graduated plastic cups are ideal so you can measure accurately
- Stir sticks — wooden craft sticks or reusable silicone ones both work great
- Nitrile gloves — not optional, trust me on this one
- Mask or respirator — especially important if you’re working indoors
For the fun extras (and honestly, this is where it gets addictive):
- Pigment powders or alcohol inks
- Glitter, gold leaf flakes, or holographic powder
- Dried or pressed flowers
- Toothpicks for swirling designs
One thing I cannot stress enough: get everything laid out before you open that resin. Once you start mixing, you’re on a timer. Nothing is worse than scrambling to find your glitter while your resin is already starting to set.
Safety First — Please Don’t Skip This Section
I know, I know — safety talk is boring. But resin safety is actually pretty simple and takes about 30 seconds to think about, so hear me out.
Resin involves chemicals, and some people are more sensitive to it than others. Repeated skin contact can actually cause allergic reactions over time, even if the first few times feel totally fine.
So wear your gloves every single time, no exceptions. If you’re working at a kitchen table or in a small room, crack a window or turn on a fan — good airflow makes a real difference.
A basic respirator mask is worth it if you’re going to be crafting with resin regularly, but even a well-ventilated space helps a ton.
The bottom line: resin is completely safe when you’re a little mindful about it. Just don’t be cavalier with it, and you’ll be totally fine.
Step 1: Prepare Your Workspace
This step feels like “ugh, setup” but it genuinely makes the whole process smoother — so give it five minutes.
- Lay down a plastic tablecloth, a silicone mat, or parchment paper over your whole work surface. Resin will drip, and dried resin on your table is a nightmare to remove.
- Place your silicone molds on a completely flat, level surface — use an actual level if you have one nearby. If the molds are even slightly tilted, your coasters will cure thicker on one side, which is annoying.
- Make sure your workspace is warm. Ideally you want the room to be at least 70–75°F (21–24°C). Cold temperatures slow down curing and can mess with how the resin sets. If your house is chilly, a small space heater nearby works wonders.
Think of this like the mise en place of resin crafting — everything in its place before you start, and the whole project flows so much better.
Step 2: Measure & Mix Your Resin
This is the most important step to get right, and it’s honestly not hard — you just have to be precise.
Most beginner epoxy resins use a 1:1 ratio (equal parts resin and hardener by volume), but always double-check your specific brand’s instructions before you start.
Here’s how to do it:
- Pour your resin into a mixing cup first, then add the same amount of hardener
- Stir slowly and deliberately for at least 3–5 minutes — set a timer if you need to
- Scrape the sides and the bottom of the cup as you go — unmixed resin stuck to the walls is the main cause of sticky spots later
- When it looks completely clear and uniform, it’s ready
The biggest beginner mistake here is stirring too fast. I get it, it feels like you should be efficient, but aggressive stirring whips air bubbles into the resin and then you spend the next step fighting them. Slow and steady really does win this race.
Step 3: Add Color or Decorations
Okay, now we’re having fun. This is the part that’s basically just playing around, and there’s genuinely no wrong answer.
A few ideas to get you started:
- Solid color: Add 2–3 drops of pigment powder or alcohol ink and stir gently until blended
- Marble effect: Split your resin into two cups, color each one differently, then pour them both into the mold and swirl lightly with a toothpick
- Botanical look: Pour a thin layer of clear resin first, arrange dried flowers face-down, then cover with another layer
- Glam style: Add gold or silver leaf flakes right before pouring — they swirl around beautifully
My honest advice? Start simple for your very first pour. A single color or a two-color swirl looks stunning and gives you the best chance to nail the technique before you go wild with layers and inclusions. You can always level up on the next batch.
Step 4: Pour Into the Molds
This step is satisfying in a deeply therapeutic way, just so you know.
- Pour your resin into each mold slowly and in a thin stream — don’t dump it all at once
- Fill right up to the rim of the mold, but stop before it starts to overflow (overfilling makes demolding messier)
- Use a toothpick to gently swirl, reposition flowers, or pull any pigment into the design you want
Go slow here. Pouring quickly creates turbulence in the resin, which means more bubbles. Think of it like pouring a really nice glass of wine — gentle and deliberate.
Step 5: Remove Bubbles
Here’s something nobody tells you before your first pour: bubbles are completely normal and expected. Every single batch will have some. It’s not a sign you did anything wrong.
Getting rid of them is easy:
- Hold a heat gun or small butane torch about 6–8 inches above the surface and pass it over quickly in a sweeping motion
- You’ll literally watch the bubbles pop and disappear — it’s weirdly satisfying
- If you don’t have a heat gun, gently blowing warm air through a straw works in a pinch
Don’t hold the heat in one spot too long. A quick pass is all it takes. You can make two or three passes over the next few minutes as new bubbles rise to the surface.
Step 6: Let It Cure
This is the hardest part — waiting. I say that as someone who has absolutely poked a resin coaster too early and left a fingerprint in it. Learn from my mistakes.
- Once your coasters are poured, don’t touch them
- Cover them loosely with a cardboard box or plastic container to keep dust and pet hair off the surface
- Let them cure for the time listed on your resin’s packaging — usually 8–24 hours for a basic cure, and 72 hours for a full, hard cure
They might feel solid to the touch after 8 hours, but the inside can still be flexible and soft. Letting them go the full cure time means they’ll be properly hard and scratch-resistant. If you can wait the full 72 hours before you start actually using them as coasters, even better.
Step 7: Demold & Finish
The most exciting part — seeing your finished coasters for the first time!
- Gently flex the silicone mold and peel it away from the edges — the coaster should pop right out
- Flip it over and admire the glossy, gorgeous surface
- Run your finger along the edges — if they feel sharp or rough, a few passes with fine-grit sandpaper (400 grit works great) will smooth them right out
- If you want an extra glossy finish, you can brush on a UV resin top coat or a clear spray sealant
And that’s genuinely it. You made resin coasters. I’m proud of you!
Beginner Design Ideas to Try Next
Now that you’ve got the basics down, here are some fun combinations to experiment with on your next batch:
- White + gold marble — white pigment swirled with gold alcohol ink, maybe a few gold leaf flakes; looks high-end and is honestly so easy
- Clear resin + pressed flowers — delicate and botanical, perfect for spring or as a gift
- Neutral tones for minimalist decor — think warm beiges, creams, and terracotta; super trendy right now on Pinterest
- Bold color + glitter — great for kids, holiday gifts, or just when you want something that pops
- Ocean-inspired — blues and teals with white swirls; looks like something you’d pay $40 for in a boutique
Common Mistakes to Avoid
A quick heads-up on what trips most beginners up:
- Wrong ratio → leads to resin that stays sticky forever and never fully cures; always measure carefully
- Stirring too fast → creates tons of micro-bubbles that are hard to remove; go slow
- Too much pigment → can actually prevent proper curing and muddy your colors; a little goes a very long way
- Working in a cold room → resin cures poorly below 70°F and can come out cloudy or bendy
- Touching too early → you’ll leave marks, and there’s no fixing it once it’s cured
Final Thoughts
Coasters are the absolute best starting point because they’re low-stakes, quick to make, and you end up with something actually useful at the end. Once you’ve done one batch, you’ll be itching to try trays, jewelry dishes, keychains, bookmarks… it kind of becomes a whole thing.
I promise it’s so much easier than it looks, and the results are genuinely impressive even on your very first try. You’ve got this!
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